The famous Ticonderoga of Greenwich, strafing us in St. George’s Harbour.
THE other day, Wednesday to be exact, we were sipping our morning hot beverages below as Becca read on deck, when the “yoo-hoo’s” and frantic waving from the catamaran anchored next to us roused us all to the rail.
Turns out that Emmy Kate (the catamaran) lost her life raft on the trip over from Hampton, and her owners had decided to turn her over to a professional delivery captain for the rest of the trip down to the islands. Problem was, they had provisioned for 5 crew for 10 days, and had a surfeit of food that would go bad if someone couldn’t take if off their hands. And, Praise the Good Lord Above, that someone ended up being us.
As Emmy Kate’s owners frantically filled, and I mean FILLED, our dinghy with food (the delivery captain was pulling up as we loaded), Philip, Becca and I laughed hysterically at our good fortune. The meat alone was pounds and pounds of fresh tuna (caught and deep frozen on passage), about 200 chicken breasts (ok, more like 20), a pork loin, a pound of sausage, three pounds of bacon, two of hamburger, and hot dogs. Then there were the hundreds of snack bars, boxes of crackers and cookies and big bag of candy, not to mention all the fresh, canned and boxed groceries.
There must have been a good $400 of food weighing down our dinghy as we wallowed back to the boat, still amazed at our good fortune. Thanksgiving was entirely provisioned from the stash: marinated pork loin, mashed potatoes, homemade stuffing, broccoli and homemade gravy. We followed it all up with a pie made from the frozen blueberries and blackberries that were slowly melting in the fridge, with one of the apples thrown in for body, and a pie crust made from (GASP!) a box pie crust mix, something that goes against my deepest nature, but less so than wasting food. It was a delightful meal made extra-special by the donated food, as well as the presence of Marc from Whisper, a solo sailor from the Salty Dog Rally – somehow giving away food we were given made T’giving extra special!
We’ve had bacon for breakfast both mornings since, and I’ve been feeding everyone in the anchorage an attempt to use up the frozen foods that didn’t fit in the freezer and therefore got stashed in the fridge. Last night we had Ryan and Shawn from Liberty by for hamburgers and hot dogs, and tonight we’re hoping to trade some of the awesome tuna for a soldering job by More Child’s Play, another Salty Dogger from our rally.
Ah, the spirit of cruising!
MORE adventures aboard the SV Indecisive. Departing Bermuda today, pending further waffling.
SOOOOO, we aren’t leaving Bermuda tomorrow after all. Despite the Green Light from Chris Parker, weather guru, and the seemingly good forecast, Herb — who has been guiding cruisers since forever — apparently said NO GO, so here we stay, until Herb says go. Which might be a full week to ten days, but that’s OK by us. No problem being “stuck” in paradise, right?
But the most awesome thing is that we are, as I type, at St. George’s Dinghy and Sports Club, the most welcoming yacht club on the planet, watching the awards for the Bermuda inland special races. Every summer, Bermudians race these 14 foot wooden dinghies with more than 1000 square feet of sail (amazing, if you know what that means — if there’s nobody balancing it, it falls over). So tonight is their big awards ceremony at the club, with lots of Bermudians in their blue blazers and the mayor of St. George presiding, and they have welcomed us with open arms.
It’s apparently par for the course here. My impression is that most yacht clubs are snooty, welcoming only other yacht club members, but not the lovely Dinghy Club. These folks are awesome: upon first arriving, all scrubby and anchored-out, the COMMODORE of the Dinghy Club welcomed us with open arms, asking where we were anchored and welcoming us to use the showers (for only a $2 fee), the laundry and the bar, urging us to hang out at the club. Everyone here — our friend McCoy (the Real) and the bartenders and everyone — has treated us like club members, knowing full well that we are anchored cruisers, buying us drinks and telling us all about what we should see on the islands. They even urged us to show up tonight before the awards started, for the one-hour open bar, making sure our drinks were filled up before they started charging. Who are these people?
So if you’re ever in Bermuda, stop by the Dinghy Club, the last marina on the north side of the harbor before the cut, and say hi to everyone for us. Because they’re the awesome-est.
HB’s been bugging me to write something for the blog, so here’s a quick word about what we’ve been working on while in Bermuda.
The water tank vent problem is fixed. I added about four feet of hose, which I passed up inside the coachroof. I see no reason the vents need to be outside, as long as they are above the fill tube and the tanks at all angles of heel, which they now are.
Somewhat related to the water tank problem, we have been taking steps to tackle the excessive heel we experienced on this passage. I think that some of it was the result of too much weight too far outboard–the diesel cans (about 300lbs filled) were stored along the port rail, and we suspect that water in the built-in tanks migrates to the low side over time, so after three days on starboard tack, there was several hundred pounds more water in the port tank. We have moved the jerry cans to the centre-line, under the dinghy, and added pad-eyes for lashing them down–they should be at least as secure as they were, with less danger of a wave carrying them away. I want to isolate the water tanks from each other too, but I haven’t investigated the setup properly there–it may be already possible.
Further to that end, I’ve been buffing up on my sail trim theory. We really need to go sailing for fun one of these days, just to get some practice with the rig. I realised a few weeks ago that we’ve never taking this boat out just for fun–always for travel. I’ve more or less come to hate sailing because of that: it’s like buying an MGB and then only ever using it to commute into downtown DC.
That’s about it, really. It’s nice to be in Bermuda, but we are ready to get onward to our destination.
WELL, looks like the time has come to move on. We are now planning to leave Bermuda for the BVIs tomorrow morning. It may potentially be a squally trip, which might be pretty unpleasant, but it looks like a safe window to get outta here and on our way. So, if you don’t hear from us again, we’re off sailing one of the seven seas again, and should be back in about a week.